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OK, yes, the primary item people go to the wine country for is wine. And the biggest shock people get when they buy wine in wine country is how very, very expensive it is when purchased at the winery. This goes against logic and reason, yet there it is. Fact.

But there you are in the romantic Napa Valley, cruisin' along Silverado Trail, gliding from one winery to another, and sooner or later you will cave and buy some wine, something you know you could pick up at Costco or the Grocery Outlet or Trader Joe's for about a quarter of the price. You feel slightly tawdry, knowing you're spending WAY more than you should, but when you get home and look at your purchases, you feel a bit better. It is, after all, a reminder of a presumably lovely vacation. And if you shopped at the right wineries, you bought something that cannot be purchased anywhere else. There are a very few that refuse to go corporate.

V. Sattui Winery, 1111 White Lane, between Rutherford and St. Helena on Highway 29 across from the Flyers Gas Station and Dean & DeLuca (see below). 707-963-7774. Open daily from 9 AM-6PM. Website: http://www.vsattui.com/
V. Sattui proudly and loudly advertises that their wines are only available at the winery. There is also a very large gift shop and picnic supply (breads, cold cuts, cheeses, salads, etc.) and a picnic grounds available. Their wines may not be the most transcendental experience you've ever had, but they're good to enjoy on a picnic or casual dinner. The Madeira is a good bet too.

Wermuth Winery, 3942 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 707-942-5924. Open when the owner feels like it. This is a one-man show. The tasting room is small and narrow and there's about three cars' worth of parking. The chatty owner makes one or two wines - when he gets tired of one, he rips out the grapes and plants something else. He doesn't sell to stores - you can buy only at the winery. Mlle. de Joie picked up a Cabernet a couple of years ago for $22.00 that was one of the best she'd ever tasted.

B.R. Cohn Winery, 15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, CA, 800-330-4064, open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM. Website: http://www.brcohn.com/index.asp
B.R. Cohn is the manager of the Doobie Brothers. Years ago he snapped up some acreage in Sonoma and started making wine (and now, olive oil). From humble beginnings (on a visit a few years ago, the tasting room was in a small garage), this has expanded into a large estate that never lost its edge. Classic cars are one of Cohn's passions and there are a couple on display. The tasting room features gold records and rock memorabilia. The wine can be excellent: Panel Wagon Pinot is a light, easy-to-drink sipper that would be good with salmon. The Doobie Red is a bit more substantial - to be enjoyed with some grilled filet - and all profits from the Doobie series go to benefit veteran's causes. Lots of music and other events happen at the winery too.

Prager Port,1281 Lewelling Lane (off Highway 29) St Helena, CA 94574. 707-942-5924 or 800-969-7678. Website: http://www.pragerport.com/
Prager does have limited distribution, but at 3600 cases annually, they're not going to start selling via Price Club. It's hard to find the driveway - look for Sutter Home close to it, or the sign for a B&B on the same site. Ports are not cheap, but a bottle will last indefinitely and should be savored in small pours. The Sweet Claire late-harvest Riesling, with its distinctive lemony taste, is wonderful to enjoy with chocolate and hazelnuts, or a perfectly ripe pear.

Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company, 835 Charter Oak Drive, St. Helena, 707-963-4173. Cash and local checks only. Turn off the insanity of Highway 29 at Tra Vigne and follow Charter Oak to where it makes a tiny jog. Directly in front of you will be a white barn-like building with a small parking lot and numerous citrus trees. Walk in through the screen door: You have entered a little piece of Italy. You are as likely to hear Italian as English in this dimly lit little store - "Scuzi," said the young woman behind Mlle. de Joie, who was busy gawking at the Porcini by the barrel. Enormous wedges of Parmesan, borlotti beans to scoop up in a bag, salsiccia and coteghino sausages, pastas, anchovies... and the olive oil. Good Lord. Policarpo & Narcisa are from Lucca, Tuscany, and they press their own organic emerald-green, intensely-flavored oil, three litres for $33.00. A must-visit.

Dean and DeLuca,607 South St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, CA 94574. 707-967-9980. Open Sunday - Thursday - 7 AM -7 PM, Friday & Saturday - 7 AM - 8 PM. Cash, checks, credit cards. Parking lot on site. Website: http://www.deandeluca.com/
This is a foodie mecca. M. de Joie would never suggest that one do all one's shopping there unless Donald Trump is your sugar daddy, but it is worth a stop. The wine hall and the selection of cookware will set you to drooling, so when you've lusted enough after that Viking sauteuse ($215.00), go over to the cheese counter and ask for a sample of whatever looks good. (Hint: the 4-year aged Gouda will simply melt in your mouth.) The service is excellent and the staff will indulge you. Peruse the various items for sale - vinegars, spreads, pickles, the prepared foods, cooking gadgets (Mlle. de Joie still loves the citrus peeler/channeler she picked up there). Get a scoop of gelato or an espresso to go.

Oakville Grocery,Oakville Grocery, 7856 St. Helena Highway,Oakville, CA 94562
(707) 944-8802, Fax: (707)944-1844. General Store Hours 8:00am - 6:00pm Daily, Espresso Bar Hours 7:00am - 6:00pm Daily. Parking lot at the corner of Oakville Crossroad and Highway 29. Website: http://www.oakvillegrocery.com/default.php
Kickplates on the front door make you think you're entering a little old-fashioned general store, but this was one of the first gourmet groceries to open in the Napa Valley. They can make you up a sandwich like Oakville Vegetarian for $8.95 - Roasted tomatoes, kalamatas, artichoke hearts, feta spread, red onion & arugula on herbed focaccia, or Italian Salami & Provolone for $8.95: Red onion, leaf lettuce, tomato & balsamic vinaigrette on a baguette. If you'd like to get a gift basket, they'll make one to order with advance notice. Wander around the narrow aisles, taste olives or cheeses, buy some roasted red pepper spread and a baguette. Low-key and delicious.
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There are plenty of other food purveyors in the Napa Valley, to say nothing of Sonoma, Healdsburg, and more distant environs. Even the Cal-Mart Grocery in Calistoga was a pleasure to stroll through and marvel at the wide variety of cheeses, breads, wines, condiments, and baked goods. When visiting wine country, don't forget about the food: good wine requires it.