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Sushi and Serenity at Sakura
Apr. 16th, 2017 09:13 pm“Jiro Ono serves Edo-style traditional sushi, the same 20 or 30 pieces he’s been making his whole life, and he’s still unsatisfied with the quality and every day wakes up and trains to make the best. And that is as close to a religious experience in food as one is likely to get.” – Anthony Bourdain
“Omakase, I am in your hands.” A broad smile moved across his face. I had found the code. He spread the bamboo leaf in front of me and, leaning forward, said softly, “Sashimi first?” – Ruth Reichl, Looking for Umani, “Garlic and Sapphires”
Depending on which source you consult, sushi had its beginnings in the 8th century, or the 7th, or the 2nd. It appeared in China as a means to preserve fish before spreading to Japan over a period of several hundred years. The earliest forms would be repulsive to most modern Western sushi fans – fish packed in rice and allowed to percolate for months before discarding the rice, wiping away the slime, and eating what must have been a highly pungent and odorous dish. (This process was also the beginning of the Southeast Asian condiment known as nam pla or fish sauce.) Perhaps because 21st century diners don’t care to be reminded of the primitive origins of their favorite foods, great creativity goes into disguising what started out as fermented fish with rice as evidenced by these designer rolls served in Miami sushi palaces.
If Femme de Joie’s memory serves, Sakura Sushi was the first sushi restaurant in Redding (if anyone remembers differently, please advise). The nondescript standalone building in a slightly dodgy area doesn’t look particularly inviting, but step inside and transition from the graffiti-smeared parking lot to a Zen oasis of a dining room – a far cry from sushi-to-go in supermarkets or a high turnover Japanese something-for-everyone chain.
Owner and sushi chef Kenji Tanaka makes sushi as it’s ordered. You won’t see a team of two or three apprentices behind the sushi bar, so it will take longer to get food to the table than in some other restaurants. And you won’t see an extensive menu including noodles, sukiyaki, tonkatsu, salmon teriyaki, and so forth: the limited menu centers on sashimi and sushi. Simplicity and immediacy of preparation is a rarity in the restaurant business.
Cucumber salad, $3.00
Our relationship with Sakura didn’t get off to a promising start. On each visit we were told that miso soup was unavailable – first because they were out, then later because there was no demand and because it was too hot and it wouldn’t be available until fall. Femme de Joie instead ordered cucumber salad and was sorry she did – bitter dry cucumbers bathed in a dressing tasting of soy sauce and little else.
From left, California roll, $4.00 (imitation crab, cucumber, and avocado) and Crunchy roll, $5.00 (shrimp tempura, crab and lettuce with crispy tempura flakes)
The sushi rolls were a great improvement. In particular the Crunchy roll with still-warm tempura shrimp encased in the soft vinegary rice with teeny bits of crunchy deep-fried batter was a pleasure to eat, though the very fresh buttery avocado in the California roll was a close second. Amico del Signore liked the Crunchy roll enough to order a second round.
Clockwise from top left, negihama roll (yellowtail and green onions), $4.00; nigiri tobiko (flying fish roe), $3.50; Hot Rod Roll, $5.00 (spicy tuna).
Femme de Joie enjoys spicy hot food; the red, meaty tuna stood up to the heat level. Yellowtail (which could be one of a variety of amberjack fish) was a nice mix with green onions as a piquant contrast to its smooth texture. But the standout on this assortment was the tobiko – this was by far the freshest flying fish roe M. de Joie has ever had the pleasure to eat. Very often the container has been open for some time before using and the eggs do not improve with age. But tiny pearls, lightly salty, that popped gently when pressed on the tongue were a textural delight and not at all fishy.
Vegetable tempura appetizer, $6.00
Not the big blowsy puffs of batter as delivered in most restaurants, this tempura was simple and exemplified the notion of “appetizer” – something to whet the appetite, not appease it. A combination of green beans, onion slices, carrot strips, sweet potato slices, broccoli florets, freshly deep-fried and barely tender, made a good substitute for a salad.
Clockwise from top left: California roll, Crunchy roll, Sabakyu roll (mackerel and cucumber), $3.50; Kamakazi roll (spicy fried oyster and avocado), $4.50.
We went for a repeat of California roll and Crunchy roll – both of which would make excellent introductions to sushi for those not sure about it. The Sabakyu might be too scary for a novice, as mackerel is a strongly-flavored fish. It is one fish that is not strictly raw for sushi, as it spoils quickly and is therefore cured for a few hours in salt or vinegar. While M. de Joie enjoyed the gamy, oily taste, it isn’t for everyone – Amico del Signore felt he could live without it. The oyster taste in the Kamakazi roll was quite subtle and the texture softly blending with avocado for a roll that didn’t quite have the salty ocean taste one associates with oysters.
Left to right, Philadelphia roll (salmon and cream cheese), $4.00; Dynamite roll (spicy albacore and avocado), $4.50.
Definitely an American invention, the Philadelphia roll’s blend of cream cheese and salmon was not unlike a spread you might find at a cocktail party to smear on a cracker. Though tasty, the cream cheese leaves a bit of a gummy mouthfeel. Spicy tuna and avocado was a better combination with smooth avocado tempering the heat and complimenting the firm-textured tuna.
It was never crowded or even almost full on our visits, but we did notice a lot of takeaway orders being picked up. The dining room is quite small – no more than ten tables plus a small sushi bar – and the atmosphere is peaceful and quiet. Seats have thin cushions and a bar that runs along the seat back which unfortunately prevents you from getting too comfortable. Prices are extremely reasonable and service is friendly, though as mentioned above, this is not fast food for people in a hurry. Tame the monkey mind and savor the experience.
Sakura Sushi, 2130 East Street, Redding, CA 96001. 530-244-0201. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner only, 5:00 PM to 8:30 PM. Cards and cash; no checks. Vegan and vegetarian options. Beer and wine. Parking lot. Follow Sakura Sushi on Facebook.
“Omakase, I am in your hands.” A broad smile moved across his face. I had found the code. He spread the bamboo leaf in front of me and, leaning forward, said softly, “Sashimi first?” – Ruth Reichl, Looking for Umani, “Garlic and Sapphires”
Depending on which source you consult, sushi had its beginnings in the 8th century, or the 7th, or the 2nd. It appeared in China as a means to preserve fish before spreading to Japan over a period of several hundred years. The earliest forms would be repulsive to most modern Western sushi fans – fish packed in rice and allowed to percolate for months before discarding the rice, wiping away the slime, and eating what must have been a highly pungent and odorous dish. (This process was also the beginning of the Southeast Asian condiment known as nam pla or fish sauce.) Perhaps because 21st century diners don’t care to be reminded of the primitive origins of their favorite foods, great creativity goes into disguising what started out as fermented fish with rice as evidenced by these designer rolls served in Miami sushi palaces.
If Femme de Joie’s memory serves, Sakura Sushi was the first sushi restaurant in Redding (if anyone remembers differently, please advise). The nondescript standalone building in a slightly dodgy area doesn’t look particularly inviting, but step inside and transition from the graffiti-smeared parking lot to a Zen oasis of a dining room – a far cry from sushi-to-go in supermarkets or a high turnover Japanese something-for-everyone chain.
Owner and sushi chef Kenji Tanaka makes sushi as it’s ordered. You won’t see a team of two or three apprentices behind the sushi bar, so it will take longer to get food to the table than in some other restaurants. And you won’t see an extensive menu including noodles, sukiyaki, tonkatsu, salmon teriyaki, and so forth: the limited menu centers on sashimi and sushi. Simplicity and immediacy of preparation is a rarity in the restaurant business.
Cucumber salad, $3.00
Our relationship with Sakura didn’t get off to a promising start. On each visit we were told that miso soup was unavailable – first because they were out, then later because there was no demand and because it was too hot and it wouldn’t be available until fall. Femme de Joie instead ordered cucumber salad and was sorry she did – bitter dry cucumbers bathed in a dressing tasting of soy sauce and little else.
From left, California roll, $4.00 (imitation crab, cucumber, and avocado) and Crunchy roll, $5.00 (shrimp tempura, crab and lettuce with crispy tempura flakes)
The sushi rolls were a great improvement. In particular the Crunchy roll with still-warm tempura shrimp encased in the soft vinegary rice with teeny bits of crunchy deep-fried batter was a pleasure to eat, though the very fresh buttery avocado in the California roll was a close second. Amico del Signore liked the Crunchy roll enough to order a second round.
Clockwise from top left, negihama roll (yellowtail and green onions), $4.00; nigiri tobiko (flying fish roe), $3.50; Hot Rod Roll, $5.00 (spicy tuna).
Femme de Joie enjoys spicy hot food; the red, meaty tuna stood up to the heat level. Yellowtail (which could be one of a variety of amberjack fish) was a nice mix with green onions as a piquant contrast to its smooth texture. But the standout on this assortment was the tobiko – this was by far the freshest flying fish roe M. de Joie has ever had the pleasure to eat. Very often the container has been open for some time before using and the eggs do not improve with age. But tiny pearls, lightly salty, that popped gently when pressed on the tongue were a textural delight and not at all fishy.
Vegetable tempura appetizer, $6.00
Not the big blowsy puffs of batter as delivered in most restaurants, this tempura was simple and exemplified the notion of “appetizer” – something to whet the appetite, not appease it. A combination of green beans, onion slices, carrot strips, sweet potato slices, broccoli florets, freshly deep-fried and barely tender, made a good substitute for a salad.
Clockwise from top left: California roll, Crunchy roll, Sabakyu roll (mackerel and cucumber), $3.50; Kamakazi roll (spicy fried oyster and avocado), $4.50.
We went for a repeat of California roll and Crunchy roll – both of which would make excellent introductions to sushi for those not sure about it. The Sabakyu might be too scary for a novice, as mackerel is a strongly-flavored fish. It is one fish that is not strictly raw for sushi, as it spoils quickly and is therefore cured for a few hours in salt or vinegar. While M. de Joie enjoyed the gamy, oily taste, it isn’t for everyone – Amico del Signore felt he could live without it. The oyster taste in the Kamakazi roll was quite subtle and the texture softly blending with avocado for a roll that didn’t quite have the salty ocean taste one associates with oysters.
Left to right, Philadelphia roll (salmon and cream cheese), $4.00; Dynamite roll (spicy albacore and avocado), $4.50.
Definitely an American invention, the Philadelphia roll’s blend of cream cheese and salmon was not unlike a spread you might find at a cocktail party to smear on a cracker. Though tasty, the cream cheese leaves a bit of a gummy mouthfeel. Spicy tuna and avocado was a better combination with smooth avocado tempering the heat and complimenting the firm-textured tuna.
It was never crowded or even almost full on our visits, but we did notice a lot of takeaway orders being picked up. The dining room is quite small – no more than ten tables plus a small sushi bar – and the atmosphere is peaceful and quiet. Seats have thin cushions and a bar that runs along the seat back which unfortunately prevents you from getting too comfortable. Prices are extremely reasonable and service is friendly, though as mentioned above, this is not fast food for people in a hurry. Tame the monkey mind and savor the experience.
Sakura Sushi, 2130 East Street, Redding, CA 96001. 530-244-0201. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner only, 5:00 PM to 8:30 PM. Cards and cash; no checks. Vegan and vegetarian options. Beer and wine. Parking lot. Follow Sakura Sushi on Facebook.
