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The Post Office  - or, more formally, the Post Office Saloon and Grill -  was opened way, way back in time when the Downtown Mall was new, by  then-Board of Supervisor Steve Swendiman. Swendiman sold long ago but to its credit and continued success, the Post Office hasn't changed much over thirty-some years.  Drop in at lunch and you'll probably see some city/county  officials, downtown business folk  (there being a severe dearth of decent lunch places within walking distance of the old mall site) and at least one local attorney. If you're really fortunate you might see said attorney's wife trying to catch attorney with his legal secretary.

Mlle. de Joie would like to love everything about the Post Office, seeing as how it's a locally-owned business continung to thrive in the dessicated downtown area, but there are a few things that annoy her. First, however, the good:

• The hamburgers. Served on an onion roll instead of a pasty Wonder Bun with a variety of available toppings and sides, they continue to be the mainstay of lunch at the Post Office. Hefty and not usually overcooked, they're a sure bet. The French fries are crisp and never greasy.
• The soft drinks. For $1.50 you get a tall glass of soda plus a small decanterful alongside. A bargain. (.25 more when they feature live music.)
• The wine and beer list. Drafts and bottles of microbrews are $4.00 each, including Mlle. de Joie's favorite Great White. And the wine list includes worthy choices not often seen available in Redding restaurants, such as a Rodney Strong Merlot and a Coppola Pinot Noir,  priced quite attractively at $4.50 to $6.00.
• The staff. Waitstaff are always friendly and helpful; orders come out of the kitchen fairly promptly.

Now, the less pleasing:

• The salads. They'd be exceptional if they were not crammed overflowingly into bowls so that the toppings fall off and roll onto the floor and the dressings run down onto the table. Put those on a platter, for goodness sakes.  And with so many good mesclun mixes easily available, even in Redding the reliance on iceberg lettuce seems hopelessly outdated. There are far tastier options as a bed for shrimp, crab, and the usual chef's salad melange.
• The soups. They seem to have been created as an afterthought of what to do with leftovers. With a little more effort, they'd be quite good.
• Some of the pricing. Call Mlle. De Joie a curmudgeon, but $8.75 is outrageous for a tuna melt.  In general, the sandwiches are tasty but not worth the price, portion-wise. And the Wednesday night spaghetti special for $5.25 may sound attractive, but it is not going to fill you up.
• The noise. In the evenings the Post Office features live music. This is a Good Thing. Unfortunately, the patrons are not always especially appreciative, particularly Friday and Saturday nights, and will continue their conversations by elevating their voices to be heard over the music. If you're in the back section of the Post Office you won't be able to hear anything except people shouting. When every table is filled at lunch, it sometimes sounds like a clatter of bricks falling off a roof.

You could do worse for lunch in Redding. If you want to have a conversation, avoid noon to 1:00 PM.

The Post Office Saloon and Grill, 1636 Market Street, Redding (in the old mall site, off the alley). 246-2190. Open 11:00 AM until midnight, or earlier if the crowds are thin. Closed Sundays. No reservations.  No minors. Credit cards accepted. See menu at www.menucentral.com/restaurant

- Femme de Joie