Mar. 12th, 2011

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A few years after opening his hugely successful destination Skyroom at the Redding Airport, restaurateur Peter Chu announced that his brother Mark would be opening a small casual restaurant in the Pine Street School in downtown Redding. Femme de Joie dimly remembers going there shortly after Chu's Too opened and not being impressed with it - actually, her entire memory centers around some miso soup that had dried fish flakes in the bottom of the bowl, and the place being very crowded and noisy.

In recent years, though, Chu's Too has become a favorite spot for M. de Joie and Amico del Signore. Whether this is due to a change in the restaurant itself (the Chus' good friend, Duong My Diep, bought the restaurant four years ago, said brother and floor manager Lambo Diep) or whether the switch is due to a change in tastes, M. de Joie couldn't say: that long-ago indifferent evening is just a fuzzy blur.

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When you walk in you'll face the hostess's podium, separated from the main dining room by one of those ornate room dividers. On the left is a small blackboard with the daily specials written on it - actually, they're always the same specials: Hunan pork, spicy prawns, green beans with your choice of meat. Behind the podium is the sushi bar: as soon as the sushi chef spots you he'll holler "HIIII HOOWWW ARRRE YOOU?" whether you've ever been there or not.

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Small special salad and the soup of the day. Many Chinese restaurants serve a recycled thin chickeny broth with a gloppy cornstarch-and-egg swirl and a shot of soy sauce as the daily soup, but Chu's Too doesn't do that. The soups are made fresh every day with bits of fresh vegetables and meat, in a flavorful broth - no cornstarch here. The small salad is a tease: fresh cabbage and lettuce with a sesame dressing. It's just the right appetizer to make you look forward to what comes out of the kitchen next.

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Scallops in hot ginger-garlic sauce. Femme de Joie can't begin to describe how delicious this dish is - not overly spicy-hot, not too sweet or sour, the sauce enhances the scallops and crisp vegetables rather than cover them up.

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When Amico del Signore thinks of Chu's Too, this is the dish he dreams about: short ribs. Beef short ribs are cut across the bone into super-thin slices, then stir-fried in a light teriyaki sauce, and served on a bed of cabbage and carrots. The beef short ribs absolutely melt in your mouth. Teriyaki sauces are often very thick and too-sweet, but not here: again, the sauce enhances the meat.

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About Chu's Too's waitstaff: they are fun, helpful, and enthusiastic. Also fun. Did you know they were fun? They are. On a recent visit, the Chinese waiter noticed M. de Joie seriously studying the sushi menu, and he began extolling the virtues of tuna: "Lots of protein! So-oo good for you! Give you strength! Go ten hour! No problem! HAI!" accompanied by a lively pantomime of running uphill, arms pumping. That was a recommendation we couldn't pass up. Amico del Signore is not the world's biggest sushi fan, but he did enjoy Chu's Too's spicy tuna roll.

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Neither A. del Signore nor M. de Joie cared much for the pork chow mein: too much salty soy sauce and not enough ginger and garlic, as well as being oily and overcooked.

At Chu's Too, skip the standard menu items (sweet-and-sour pork, chow mein, etc., and instead head for the house specialties like the dry-braised chicken, sushi with soft-shelled crab, Chu's Special salad, the feathery-light tempura. Oh, and don't forget the tuna. Ten hour! No problem!

Chu's Too, 1135 Pine Street in the Pine Street School, Redding, (530) 244-2987. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM. Dinner Monday-Friday 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM. Saturday dinner only, 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM. Sunday dinner only, 4:30 PM to 8:30 PM. Cash and cards. Beer, wine, sake. Sushi bar. Vegetarian and vegan options. On-site parking.
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While dancing to the oldies in the freezer aisle at Trader Joe's, looking for an idea for a convenient appetizer, Femme de Joie came across Panang Curry Sticks, picked up a box, and gave ‘em a try.

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They couldn't be simpler: just spread them on a cookie sheet and bake. These crisp little sesame-coated sticks are filled with a soft, moderately pungent fish filling. The curry of the title is not the Indian-spiced one, but Thai curry, sharp and assertive and a bit hot.

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What goes well with them? Plain yogurt with cilantro & cucumber makes a cooling dipping sauce, but M. de Joie likes Trader Joe's Mango Chutney: far cheaper than Crosse & Blackwell's Major Grey Chutney and just as delicious.

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California regulators are leaning toward approving methyl iodide as a fumigant for strawberries to replace methyl bromide (known to damage the ozone layer). However, methyl iodide may be a toxic disaster waiting to happen: California's Department of Pesticide Regulation, reviewing the chemical for use in California's many strawberry fields, has decided to approve exposure limits that are 120 times higher than the agency's own scientists and appointed review board recommended.

If methyl iodide is approved for commercial use on strawberries, Femme de Joie fully intends to only consume organically-grown strawberries in season and would urge you to do the same. The CDP took public comments until June 29, collecting 53,419 e-mailed comments and at least 175 letters, the San Francisco Chronicle reported. The department has not yet counted the pro and con, "but the con definitely is in the majority," said department spokeswoman Lea Brooks. A final decision is not expected for several months, the newspaper said.

See http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/ for more.

EDIT: since this article first appeared in A News Cafe, methyl iodide has been approved for use. Femme de Joie does not encourage anyone to consume California strawberries unless they are certified organic.

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A few readers of MenuPlease seem to have the idea that Doni Greenberg's alter ego is masquerading as moi. While Femme de Joie is flattered to be compared to Doni, we are two entirely different people. We have been spotted in the same room at the same time by mostly-reputable people and as far as we know, we do not have doppelgangers.

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A few weeks ago Femme de Joie received a forwarded email that asked the correct pronunciation of Joie. That would be zhwa, but if you would like to pronounce it joy or jolie or jolly, please feel free.

The email was linked to a forum that went on to discuss the etymology of Femme de Joie and what it might really mean, implying that M. de Joie has an interesting and lively private life. The forum also suggested that M. de Joie does not speak French or that she doesn't grasp the tawdry implications of her nom de cuisine. In fact, Femme de Joie has a quiet and uneventful personal life; to her, a cougar is a large animal that will shred you in a highly unpleasant way. She is entirely aware of the double-entendre but didn't think anyone else would notice or be interested; the fact that it wound up on a discussion board made her laugh for a week.

As far as speaking French, Femme de Joie bows to the master, Mark Twain, who famously said,

"In Paris they simply stared when I spoke to them in French; I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their language."

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